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Yet Another Teddy Bear
This bear has no seams. He’s knit in the round.
Edited to
clarify some stuff on 11/15/2011.
These instructions are complete but I encourage you to use them
as guidelines. I’ve used this pattern to knit more than 100
bears so far and no two are alike. You may want longer
legs, longer arms or shorter. Play around, don’t be
afraid. Even mistakes can make your bear special.
I've included some photos here but there are even
more
illustrative images over on Flickr:
Click
here for a PDF you can download to your own computer. |
Materials:
I use 32” size U.S. 4 circular needles.
I use acrylic yarn (generally MED 4 or worsted weight) and polyester
fiberfill. My bears can go right into the washing machine and dryer
and come out sparkling clean.
I also use a 32” size U.S. 2 circular needle for picking up stitches
and a darning yarn needle for closing up.
Legs (make 2)
(I make them both at the same time.)
Cast on 6 – either use circular cast on or cast on and then join.
Rd 1 – kfb each stitch (12)
Rd 2 – kfb each stitch (24)
knit even for about 20 rows and then create the crotch.
Crotch
Knit across 12 stitches of one leg, cast on 2, knit 24, cast on
2 more, knit 12 and your crotch is done.
Knit 3 or 4 rows even |
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Because I hate to sew up anything, I have worked out a little
trick to knit a 'closed crotch'. Instead of simply adding the
second set of two stitches, I do this:
I knit the 24 until I get to the first two stitches I added.
Then I insert my left hand needle into the back of that first
added stitch AND into the back of the stitch just to the right
of it and I knit these two together. This gives me one new
stitch. Then I repeat and I have the two new stitches I need
for the other side of the crotch. It's a little tricky and
sometimes I have
to go in after and tidy up a bit with the needle but sometimes I
get it perfect and no sewing needed at all! |
ButtThe
butt is created using short rows.
On the back side over half (26) of your total stitches, knit the
rows as follows:
k24, wrap and turn
p22, wrap and turn
k20, wrap and turn
p18 wrap and turn
k16 wrap and turn
p14 wrap and turn
k12 wrap and turn
p10 wrap and turn
k8 wrap and turn
p6 wrap and turn
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Knit all around picking up wraps with their corresponding stitches
as you go to eliminate holes
Then, knit about 25 rows even on the 52 stitches til you get to the
neck.
For the 'sweater', I generally switch
colors about 3 or 4 rounds up from the butt.
Stuffing and hipsThis is a good time, in the
bearation, for you to add stuffing to the legs and body and
to stitch up the hips.
The first 100 or so of
bears I made using this pattern are different than the rest.
I used the maximum amount of stuffing. Then one of the
wonderful knitters who found my pattern and made it,
suggested that less stuffing was better - more desirable for
the small future owner (and, not inconsequentially in my
case, stretching my stuffing supply out nicely!!). That
same knitter also suggested hip joints. I tried both and
wow. I never looked back.
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To actually make the hips, I simply secure yarn on one side of
the top of the legs and do a simple running stitch across, pull
tightly and secure off. I hide the ends and... voila!
Neck
The idea here is to
decrease enough stitches over 2 rows that you have 24
stitches all around and then on the next row start the head by
doubling. Don't sweat the stitch count - you start with 52
stitches, evenly decrease over two rows and end with 24 - however
you get there is fine.
Rd 1 of the neck - K2tog, K1 on the first half, ending with k2 -
repeat for second half
Rd 2 of the nek - K1, K2tog all the way around
IF you are knitting a sweater on - you might want to change
colors here for the head.
Rd 3 start of head - KFB all stitches so that you have 48 on the
needle
Head
Knit about 3 rows even.
On the face side, *k10, place marker, k2, place marker, k2, place
marker, k10, repeat from *
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Do check and make sure you place the markers on the face side.
The face side is opposite the butt side. It's very frustrating
to realize you've added a nose to the back of the head after
it's all done. Not that I've ever done that, of course. |
Nose
Rd 1 – knit across until 1 stitch before marker, m1, k1, move
marker, k1, m1, knit the rest
Rd 2 – knit across
Repeat these 2 rounds until there are six stitches each between
the middle and side markers like in the picture.
Knit 4 or 5 rounds even then...
Rd 1 - knit across until 3 stitches before marker, ssk decrease,
k1, pass marker, k1, k2tog, knit the rest.
Rd 2 - knit across
Repeat these two rounds until you are back to 52 stitches,
total. |
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Top of Head
Knit 3 or 4 rows even.
1st decrease round - *knit
4, k2tog – repeat to end
(40)
2nd round - knit even
3rd round - *knit 3,
k2tog – repeat to end
(32)
4th - *knit 2, k2 tog – repeat to end
(24)
5th - *knit 1, k2 tog – repeat to end
(16)
6th - *k2tog – repeat to end (8)
Run yarn through stitches and tie off.
Ears
Pick up 18 stitches along side the head (I count down 3 or 4
from center and then start picking up) and then 18 more parallel
to those.
Rd 1-5 – k 36 stitches even for 4 rounds
Rd 6 *k4, k2tog, repeat from * to end (30)
Rd 7 *k3, k2tog,
repeat from * to end (24)
Rd 8 knit around (24)
Rd 9 *k2, k2 tog,
repeat from * to end (18)
Rd 10 *k1, k2tog,
repeat from * to end (12)
Run yarn through stitches and tie off
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It works best to pick up the first stitch as close to the
tippy top of the head as possible. Trust me on this - it
looks like it's not going to be positioned right but it will
be, honest. |
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Arms
Pick up a square of 5 stitches a side on the side of the body about
5 stitches down from the neck.
Knit all 20 stitches even
for about 20 rows
If I am add ing a 'sweater', I
generally, do so (change colors) after 8 or so rounds.
Decrease round 1 -*k2,
k2tog, repeat from * to end (15)
Decrease round 2 - *k2tog, repeat til 1 stitch left, k1
Run yarn through stitches and tie off.
Face
The face is oh so subjective. I try to make mine the same every
time and fail every time! I did make a video of what I do. http://www.flickr.com/photos/karolene/4740284001/in/set-72157624376998912/ I
try to stick to very simple stitches.
If you have any questions – and more importantly – if you spot a
problem with this pattern, I’d really appreciate it if you’d drop me
a note –
susandennis@gmail.com.
When you finish your bear, if you snap a picture and put it on
Flickr, please consider adding it to the new group I just created. http://www.flickr.com/groups/1490435@N22/ It
would be so fun to see everyone's bears!
Please use this pattern any way you like. It’s fine with me if
you share it, give it away,
publish it anywhere you like, sell the bears you make from it. I
really don’t care. Just enjoy.
http://susandennis.com/freepatterns